Small Stream Tackle.


Overview.

The art of fishing the rivers and streams is unlike the art of lake fishing for lake fish.
The secret of river fishing is accuracy not power and distance.
I recently fished a grayling competition with a good friend of mine that usually fishes the lakes.
What appeared apparent was the "scaled down tackle that was needed for the job.
Most fish can be found within a few yards of where you are standing, as the nearside bank is an important area of cover for fish.

The rod: In our bubbling brooks and coursing streams many types of trees and flora surround the bank side as the river is a vital source of life in the ecology of the countryside. A long rod is not practical as the overhead snags are too numerous so I recommend at the most a rod of about 9 foot. So much has been wrote " and I think I have read it" regarding type of rod. Some say a stiff rod for Dry Fly fishing and Soft actioned one for Wet. The flow of the river constantly changes I often fish dry, wet and nymphs in one day a rod that you are simply comfortable with. When selecting a rod pick a one that has a bout a 6-7 rating, ones below that seem to me like toys and above like lake rods.

Fly lines: Fly lines have to be floaters, it s a waste of time buying a sinking line as you will just get snagged on a tree root or boulder. When I comes to reaching fish at a depth just simply use a weighted fly and a longer leader. For river fishing double taper lines are traditionally the norm as they give a better presentation, I cheat a little and use a forward taper. I keep a one of each, a good fly line you will get 2 or more seasons out of no problem. I it is really worth spending little more on your fly line than on any other type tackle as it is the thing that really expresses the spirit of "Fly Fishing".

Leader construction/ tippet strength: Again much has been written about leader construction and probably a lot of rubbish as well. Keeping it simple is the key. I always use a straight monofilament of about 3lb in strength. If the fish are particular especially in the summer when the river becomes crystal clear and low, I use a 1lb breaking strain. I am not a believe in tapered casts, making knotted ones just encourages tangles, and the amount of tangles and flies I go through buying them would cost a fortune.

Fly Reels: Fly reels are objects of great beauty and are bought for their looks. I believe is true as it really does not do any work at all, it is simply a device for storing the fly line. Most fish are played with the hand, simply retrieving the line manually. So there is really no need to spend a great deal on the reel, just make sure it balances the rod and is of a matt colour and not reflective at all.

Waders: Waders should be use and not abused, most of my good fish are caught without wading. They are essential though; I always buy the soft waist ones. I once had a really nice pair or rigid thighs ones which looked great. But the slightest bend and they would crack. I spent more money on repair resin fixing them than on the waders themselves.

Eye Protection: even if you don't wear glasses start now! A travelling fly accelerates through the air at about 70 miles per hour. To get caught in the eye would result in a serious injury. Please invest in a pair of sunglasses and a clear pair of glasses, you eyesight is for life.

Summary

There is no real need to spend a fortune on fishing tackle a really good set-up usually costs under �100. It makes me laugh (this is probably going to upset the hard core fraternity) when some- one spends �300 on a rod or �200 on a reel.